Monday, April 1, 2024

The inspiration behind Dior's fashion collection in Mexico

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The embroidery technique it displays came from China, with the shawls imported to Seville in the seventeenth century. It has become one of the most emblematic Spanish accessories, notably worn by the women painted by Goya and Velázquez. From Seville, it spread to Latin America, demonstrating how artisanship is a global language with the power to connect far-away cultures and places. The atelier has developed a series of traditionally embroidered shawls with quintessential Dior details. For the Cruise 2024 collection, the maison announced collaborations with various Mexican artists and artisans from different states in Mexico, such as Puebla, Oaxaca, and Chiapas.

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For the 2023 Dior cruise collection, Maria Grazia Chiuri collaborated with Javier Menacho Guisado to reinvent the Dior Saddle bag using special leather embroidery methods. To Chiuri, La Capitana represented the essence of Flamenco with her freedom to dance that was unconventional and did not submit to any regulation. An artist with singular, revolutionary movements, she was the first female dancer in her field to wear men’s clothing, symbolizing power and fragility through her art. Paralleling these inspirations, the looks evoke, for example, the Duchess of Alba, a legendary character, horseback riding with Jackie Kennedy. At the press conference for the fashion show, Maria Grazia Chiuri expressed her profound appreciation for Mexico. The admiration of the French maison for the Latin American country, and Maria Grazia’s love for Mexican art and culture, goes beyond just a collection.

The Panathenaic Stadium in Athens is highly symbolic for Dior

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Duchess of Alba was also seen in a short jacket, high-waisted pants and a wide-brimmed hat worn on an angle. Elsewhere, the abundance of embroidery that adorns the venerated Madonna della Macarena’s gowns takes on the role of a sacred ritual in a choreography that suspends the body into an iconic image. Dreamt up by Dior’s infamous creative director, Maria Grazia Chiuri, who was inspired by Andalusian traditions and artisanship made her mission to engulf herself in the historical traditions, crafts, and female icons of this region of southern Spain for months prior to the shows debut. She chose to center the collection around the legendary flamenco dancer La Capitana, the name given to Carmen Amaya.

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It perpetuated the traditional Greek silk weaving technique using a jacquard loom to weave the House’s iconic motifs, such as stripes and Hellenized houndstooth. Chiuri also reinterpreted family-run manufacturer Atelier Tsalavoutas’s iconic fisherman cap, a historic accessory worn by fishermen on the island of Hydra since the mid-19th century, for the Dior cruise 2022 show. She crowned it with a braid made by NE.M.A., an atelier that transmits traditional passementerie techniques. Also known as Kallimármaro, loosely translating to “excellent-made marble,” the 4th-century iconic monument in the Greek capital bridges sport and culture, emblematic of antiquity and contemporary youth. Aptly named, it is the only stadium in the world built entirely of Pentelic marble, and is an essential, unifying feature of cultural life for all Athenians. Here, in ancient times, games in honor of the goddess Athena were held, and the attraction once accommodated up to 70,000 spectators.

Chiuri’s passion for wanting to create designs for the women of today shown through the collection, signaling that the future of post-pandemic fashion is not far from sportswear. The latter inspired a relaxed version of the hourglass Bar jacket with tone-on-tone embroidery, with a razor-pleated white skirt in lieu of pants. Known for her love of black, Chiuri embraced her Greek goddess theme with an abundance of white and stone colors, set off by splashes of Aegean blue on workout gear including leggings, windbreakers and running bras. “Embracing a shared commitment to inclusivity and empowerment, Gucci and Tate aim to encourage positive exchanges within communities, and inspire creativity across diverse audiences,” the company stated. In 1955, the brand held a ball to celebrate its spring collection at the nearby Gleneagles Hotel.

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Last year, Gucci staged its cruise 2024 show at the Gyeongbokgung Palace in Seoul on May 16, marking the brand’s 25 years in the country. That collection was designed by an in-house team, following the exit of the previous creative director Alessandro Michele in November 2022. Gucci’s connection to London runs deep, as the brand’s history is linked to founder Guccio Gucci, who in 1897 was a luggage porter and lift boy at London hotel The Savoy. Observing the guests’ luggage, he was inspired to start creating his own line of luxury suitcases and bags, founding his namesake house in Florence in 1921 and setting up the first Gucci store in the Italian city’s Via della Vigna Nuova. This will be creative director Sabato De Sarno’s first cruise collection, after taking the helm of the luxury brand in January last year. The hats were created by the Fernandez Y Roche atelier and inspired by images of the Duchess of Alba riding with Jackie Kennedy.

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Footwear alternatives included sock sneakers with sculpted heels, and chunky boots with thick rubber soles. “I feel incredibly lucky to be able to collaborate with somebody, and a house, that understands how special those moments are, and really helps to make them as special as they can be for you. Strictly Necessary Cookie should be enabled at all times so that we can save your preferences for cookie settings. The emblematic Manila shawls, which took three generations of women to produce, tells all the stories and journeys of the communities that created and wore it, allowing for the multiple voices of these nomadic objects to share their truths through the silhouettes. At the intersection of these encounters is an exuberant display of traditional Andalusian savoir-faire. On June 16th, Dior unveiled their latest Dior 2023 Cruise Collection at the infamous Plaza De España in the heart of Seville, Spain.

This tradition continues with the current creative director, Maria Grazia Chiuri, evident in her creations. That’s why the designer found inspiration in the Cruise 2024 collection in the Mexican surrealist artist Frida Kahlo. Honoring Dior‘s longstanding relationship with Greece, creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri presented the house’s Cruise 2022 collection in Athens tonight. The historic Panathenaic Stadium came alive as models in white suits, modernized peplos, athleisure pieces, and sneakers instead of heels took the runway. Some of the major highlights of the collection and the show are a result of Grazia Chiuri’s collaborative efforts with Greece’s local ateliers and craftsmen.

Once again, the renowned luxury maison Dior astounds with an exquisite fashion show, drawing inspiration from the rich tapestry of Mexican culture and traditions. The vibrant Mexican capital hosted the Dior show, where it unveiled its latest Cruise 2024 collection. The magnificent central courtyard of the Old College of San Ildefonso, which witnessed the birth of the muralist movement and housed the iconic masterpieces of Diego Rivera, served as the perfect venue for this remarkable event. In line with recent tradition, the brand also used the event to showcase the creativity of local artists and artisans.

Over the years, one of the main objectives of the house has always been to preserve savoir-faire and local craftsmanship. “My goal is to protect the traditional skills of artisans and ensure that future generations have a vision of them,” expressed the creative director. Dior has drawn inspiration from Mexicos’ rich culture and traditions in the past for some of its most acclaimed creations. In 1951, the maison unveiled a breathtaking cocktail dress named Mexique for its fall-winter collection. This exquisite ensemble, crafted from layers of brown tulle, was adorned with golden beads, sequins, and a burgundy velvet bow gracefully accentuating the waist. The collection was also modeled in Acropolis, paying homage to the maison’s 1951 photoshoot for the magazine Paris Match in the same location.

The stadium was buried for centuries, but was restored in the second half of the 19th century, preserved in its original beauty. The location is highly symbolic for Chiuri, not only through its connections to the body and freedom of movement she cherishes, but also through the motifs that inform the collection and its sportswear spirit. The dress clearly embodied Mexican influence and marked the beginning of a close relationship between the fashion house and the Latin American country. Almost 70 years later, Dior returned to Mexico to find inspiration again and bring life to their Cruise 2019 collection. Directly based on the female riders of traditional Mexican rodeo, the French fashion house showcased a series of garments that referenced traditional escaramuza attire.

Also on her mood board were black-and-white photographs by Edward Steichen and George Hoyningen-Huene; a poster for a recent exhibition about the Greek gallerist Alexander Iolas, curated by Italian artist Francesco Vezzoli, and a photo of Dietrich in a white suit. Taylor-Joy straightened the fringes of Cara Delevingne’s dress before they posed for photos. “It feels so, so magical, and it’s so wonderful being here with a family like Dior because they make you feel so welcome and they’re so generous, so this feels particularly special,” she said. She was also inspired by Giorgio De Chirico, a pioneer of Surrealism who drew on poignant memories of Greece to paint metaphysical places in chiaroscuro, or the contrast of light and shadow. The Creative Director then explored the universe of Alexander Iolas, the cosmopolitan gallery owner who preserved his close ties to Greece and his home in Athens. There, he assembled an incredible collection of vases decorated with the intertwined bodies of wrestlers.

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